How To Make DIY Skinny Shaker Style Doors

When I was working on my DIY custom record player cabinet, I knew I wanted sleek, modern doors to complete the look. Skinny shaker-style doors were the perfect choice, but I quickly realized there wasn’t a straightforward tutorial out there that broke down the process in a simple way.

I spent so much time piecing together information and experimenting with different techniques, and after a bit of trial and error, I finally landed on a method that worked beautifully.

Not only is this one of the easiest ways to make shaker-style doors, but it also requires minimal tools and is budget-friendly. The clean, modern design fits perfectly with a variety of furniture styles, and you don’t have to be a woodworking pro to achieve it. Let’s dive in!

Tools & Supply List for Custom Skinny Shaker Doors

Supply List

• 3/4″ Plywood (I used red oak)
• 1×2 Boards
• Wood Glue
• 220-Grit Sandpaper

Recommended Tools List

• Finish Nailer or Pin Nailer (optional but nice to have)
• Table Saw
• Circular Saw with Accu-Cut Track (optional)
• Clamps
• Measuring Tape
• Cordless Drill
• Kreg Concealed Hinge Jig

Step 1: Determine The Size of The Doors

When measuring for your skinny shaker doors, the first thing to determine is whether you’ll be building an inset door or an overlay door. For this particular project, I built inset doors.

An inset door sits flush with the cabinet base or face frame, fitting snugly inside the opening. The ideal gap to leave around an inset door is ⅛ inch on all sides to allow for smooth operation and a clean, professional look.

Since my project required two doors to cover a wide opening, I started by measuring the width and height of the entire cabinet opening. I then divided the total width by 2 to determine the size of each door. Next, I subtracted ⅛ inch from all four sides of both doors to account for the gap.

For example, if the total width of your opening is 30 inches and your height is 20 inches, divide the width measurement by two (15 inches per door) and then subtract ⅛” from each side of each door. That’s 1/4″ from the width and 1/4″ from the height. (1/8″ + 1/8″ = 1/4″)

So one door would be 14 3/4″W by 19 3/4″H.

Taking accurate measurements is crucial to achieving that perfect flush inset look, so double-check your numbers before moving on to the next step! Like they say measure twice, cuss once!

Step 2: Measure and Cut The Center of The Door

Now that we have the measurements for each individual door, it’s time to determine the size of the ¾-inch plywood that will serve as the center panel of your door. This is the part of the door that the trim pieces will frame, creating the skinny shaker style.

For this project, we’ll be using 1×2 boards for the trim pieces, but in the next step, I’ll explain how to trim them down to create 1″ x ¾” pieces. To calculate the size of your center panel, you’ll need to subtract 1 ½” from both the width and the height of your door measurements.

Here’s why: each trim piece will be ¾” wide, and there will be one on each side of the door. When you add ¾” + ¾”, it equals 1 ½”, so you’ll subtract that from both the total width and height of the door to find the correct size for the center panel.

For example:

• If you take the measurement of your door from the last step, 14 3/4″ wide by 19 3/4″ tall, the calculation for the center panel would be:
  • Width: 14 3/4″ – 1 ½” = 13 1/4″
  • Height: 19 3/4″ – 1 ½” = 18 1/4″

The center panel measurement is 13 1/4″W by 18 1/4″H

Once you have the dimensions, use a circular saw or table saw to cut your ¾-inch plywood to size. Make sure your cuts are straight and accurate, as this will ensure a snug fit when you attach the trim pieces later. The center panel is the foundation of your door, so take your time with this step!

Step 3: Cut the Skinny Trim for Shaker Doors

Now it’s time to create that skinny trim detail that gives skinny shaker doors their signature look! To do this, we’re going to take a standard 1×2 board and trim it down to 1” x ¾”. Don’t worry—it’s easier than it sounds!

Here’s how: lay your 1×2 flat, with the wider side (the part that’s actually 1 ½ inches) facing up. Using a table saw, trim that width down to exactly 1 inch. This will give you a slim, clean trim piece perfect for framing the door.

When you’re ready to attach the trim, you’ll turn it upright so the piece is ¾” wide and 1″ tall. This creates a slight overhang over the ¾” plywood center panel.

Before attaching anything, I always recommend a dry fit. Lay out all four trim pieces around your plywood panel and check that everything fits snugly. Once you’re happy with the fit, it’s time to attach the trim.

Here’s how:

• Apply wood glue to the edges of your center panel where the trim will sit.
• If you have a pin nailer (or a finish nailer), add a couple of nails at each corner for extra reinforcement.
• No nailer? No problem! Just use clamps to hold everything securely in place while the glue dries.

Step 5: Prep for Stain or Paint

Once your doors are completely dry, remove the clamps and give them a good sanding using 220-grit sandpaper. This will smooth out any rough edges and prep the surface for painting or staining. Trust me, this step makes all the difference!

If you’re planning to use concealed hinges, now is the time to drill the hinge holes. It’s much easier to do this before you paint or stain your project—less risk of chipping or scratching your beautiful finish!

To drill the holes for concealed hinges, I recommend using the Kreg Concealed Hinge Jig. It’s a lifesaver for getting those perfectly aligned, professional-looking hinge cups. Follow the instructions on the jig, and make sure to measure and mark your hinge placement accurately before drilling. This will save you from any unnecessary adjustments later.

Once the holes are drilled, your doors are officially prepped and ready for finishing and installation!