DIY Record Player Cabinet With Drawer

Finding the perfect cabinet for our record player has always been a challenge. We use our record player religiously, and I could never find a piece of furniture where it didn’t awkwardly overhang either the front or the back.

On top of that, we were struggling to store our growing collection of records. They were stacked flat on top of one another, which made it impossible to easily flip through them or even see what we had.

So, I decided it was time to take matters into my own hands. I sat down, sketched out my ideal design, and built a custom record player cabinet that solved all of our problems.

Now, we have a top large enough to perfectly fit the record player without any overhang, plus a space behind closed doors where our records stand upright and are easy to browse through. It’s exactly what we needed, and I’m so excited to share how you can build one too!

Tools & Supply List for Custom Record Player Cabinet

Supply List

• (1) 3/4″ 4×8 plywood (I used red oak)
• (1) 1/4″ 4×4 OR 4×8 plywood (I used sanded pine, get the bigger sheet if you want extra for a future project)
• (1) 1x3x4
• (4) 1x2x8
• (4) 2x2x3
• (1) 1x6x6
• Edge Banding
• Door & Drawer Hardware (Mine are from Hobby Lobby)
• (2 Sets) Blum 95° Thick Door Frameless Inset Hinges
• (1 Set) 10″ Drawer Slides
• 1 1/4″ Kreg Screws
• 1 1/4″ Brad Nails
• 1 1/4″ Wood Screws
• Wood Glue
• (2) Magnetic Door Catch
• (4) Corner Brackets (Make sure the screws aren’t to long for the 3/4″ Top. I had to buy extra 1/2″ wood screws)
• Steel Vinyl Record Supports
• 220-Grit Sandpaper
• 320-Grit Sanding Block

Recommended Tools

• Miter saw
• Circular Saw with a cutting track
• Table Saw (Doors Only)
• Jigsaw
• Cordless Drill & Driver
• Kreg Concealed Hinge Jig
• Kreg Jig Pocket Hole System
• Kreg Peg Hole Jig (Optional)
• Clamps
• Brad Nailer
• Palm Sander
• Measuring Tape
• Safety Equipment
• Edge Band Trimmer

Cut Out Front Face Frame Arch

Let’s get started on the bottom piece of your face frame! Grab your 1×6 board and cut it down to size.

Now for the fun part, creating that gorgeous curved detail along the bottom edge. Start by measuring up from the bottom of the board and in from the side. Where those two measurements meet is the magic spot to begin your curve.

Next, use a small bowl or another round object to trace an arch at the bottom of the board. Make sure the curve is symmetrical and spans the desired width. Draw a line the full span of the board till you get to the next arch. Clamp the board securely to your work surface and cut out with a jigsaw.

Check out the photos below to see how I created my arch detail. This piece is going to add so much charm to your cabinet!

Assemble the Front Face Frame

To build the front face frame, you will use the following pieces: (2) 2×2 legs cut to size, the 1×6 arched board, a 1×3 cut to size, and a 1×2 cut to size. These boards will form the structure of the face frame.

The complete cut list is available in the premium printable plans.

Begin by preparing the boards for assembly. Drill pocket holes on each end of the front face frame pieces using a Kreg jig set to the 3/4″ setting. For the arched bottom board, add 3 pocket holes on each end for extra support instead of 2. You’ll also need wood glue and 1 1/4″ Kreg screws to assemble this part of the frame.

Start by attaching the 2 legs to the 1×3 board at the top and the 1×6 arched board at the bottom. Lay everything down on the ground to keep it level and make sure the boards align perfectly with the front of the legs—this little trick makes getting everything flush so much easier. Apply wood glue to the joints before securing them with the Kreg screws.

Next, position the 1×2 board in the center of the face frame. Measure 7″ down from the bottom of the 1×3 and 13 3/4″ up from the top of the 1×6. This placement is critical as it defines where the drawer will be.

Double-check all measurements and make sure the frame is square before moving on to the next step.

Cut & Assemble the Sides of the Cabinet

For the sides of the cabinet, start by cutting 2 panels from the 3/4″ plywood. Once the panels are cut, drill 5 or 6 pocket holes along the longest edges of each plywood panel. Set your Kreg jig to the 3/4″ setting to ensure proper pocket hole depth. These pocket holes will be used to attach the side panels to the legs.

Next, cut (2) 1×2 boards that you will glue and nail to the front of the plywood panels. This will give the appearance that the cabinet has a frame on each side.

To attach, position each side panel against the front face frame, making sure the 1×2’s on the front is flush with the corresponding leg of the face frame. Use wood glue and kreg screws to fasten the sides on.

After those are attached take your remaining 2×2 legs and attach them to the rear edges of the side panels. Once again makes sure the 1×2 trim is flush with the edge of the leg.

For the side arch details, you will repeat the same steps you took when you did the front arch. After cutting the arches, drill 2 pocket holes on each side of the board and 2 on the top of the board. Apply wood glue along the edges of the board, and position it flush with the 1×2 of the side panel.

Since the bottom of the arch doesn’t have enough space for a pocket hole, clamps will be extremely helpful for this step. Clamp the board in place to keep it flush with the legs while the glue dries. Once the glue has fully set, remove the clamps.

Assemble Back Frame

For the back frame, you’ll cut two pieces of 1×2 board—these little guys will play a big role in connecting the back legs and giving your cabinet some much-needed structural support.

Start by positioning the top 1×2 so it’s nice and flush with the top of the back legs. Next, place the bottom 1×2 4″ off the floor.

Don’t forget the secret trick here, recess both boards about 1/4″ from the back edge of the legs. This step is super important because it creates the perfect pocket for the back panel to sit nice and flush later on.

Take your time to line everything up, and refer to the pictures below if you need a little extra guidance.

Attach the Bottom

To create the bottom of your cabinet, grab your 3/4″ plywood and get ready to cut. Before you start, take a moment to double-check your measurements—trust me, it’s worth it! Slight variations in assembly are normal, and measuring twice (maybe three times!) ensures a snug and accurate fit.

Once you’ve cut the plywood, test how it fits between the frame. If it’s a little snug, don’t panic! A trusty rubber mallet can help gently tap it into place. Just remember, patience is key here—you’re building something awesome, not rushing through a puzzle!

When the plywood is nestled perfectly, make sure it’s flush with the top edge of the front 1×6 and the back 1×2. With everything aligned, secure it in place using wood glue and your 1 1/4″ Kreg screws. Voilà the base of your cabinet is ready, and you’re one step closer to the finish line!

Cut & Assemble Inset Doors & Drawer Front

Creating the cabinet doors and drawer front requires precise measurements and adjustments as you go. If you want more in detail on how to make DIY skinny shaker doors I have a full tutorial you can read here.

Start by measuring the opening of your face frame. For a proper fit and an even inset, you’ll want to allow for a 1/8″ reveal all the way around the door. The doors and drawer fronts will consist of a 3/4″ plywood center panel with 1″ by 3/4″ trim around the edges. To create the center panel, cut your plywood to the correct dimensions according to the plans.

Take your trim pieces and attach them to the plywood center panel using wood glue. You can secure them with wood glue nails or just wood glue and clamps—both methods work well. Allow the doors to dry for several hours to make sure the glue sets fully before removing the clamps.

Make the Top

Now you are going to create your top but we will attach it at the very end. Start by cutting a piece of 3/4″ plywood to size.

When positioning the top, pay close attention to the overhangs—this is what gives the cabinet its balanced and polished look. You’ll want a 1/2″ overhang at the front, a 1/4″ overhang at the back, and a 1″ overhang on both sides.

Make & Assemble the Drawer Box

Cut your 3/4″ plywood to the correct dimensions according to the plans. The bottom of the drawer will sit inset between the front, back, and side pieces. Before assembling apply edge banding to the tops of all 4 boards for a finished look.

To assemble the drawer box drill pockets holes as stated:

• (2) pocket holes on either end of the front/back pieces 
• (4-5) pocket holes on each longer sided of the bottom piece & (2) pocket holes each on the shorter ends

Make sure the pocket holes are on the outside of the drawer box. Using wood glue and 1 1/4″ Kreg screws, attach all the boards together.

Install Drawer

Installing the drawer slides might sound tricky, but with the right tools and a little patience, it’s a breeze! I highly recommend using a Kreg Drawer Slide Jig for accuracy—it’s a game changer. If you don’t have one, no worries! A scrap piece of 1/2″ plywood or any wood cut to the exact height of the drawer box works perfectly as a guide to keep the slides level and properly positioned.

For this cabinet, you’ll need 10″ drawer slides. Start by placing your scrap wood guides on each side of the cabinet and ensuring they’re level. Then, position the drawer slide on top of the guide and attach it securely to the side of the cabinet.

Here’s an important tip: make sure to set the slides back far enough to account for the 1″ inset of the drawer front. This ensures the drawer front fits perfectly once installed. Always check the instructions that come with your drawer slides, as the details can vary depending on the brand.

Once the slides are in place, attach the slides to the sides of the drawer box. Align everything carefully with the cabinet-mounted slides, and you’re all set! Your drawer will glide smoothly and fit just right.

Install Drawer Fronts

I recommend using playing cards and double-sided tape to stick the drawer front on.

Start by placing playing cards around the edges of the drawer opening. Add or remove cards until you achieve an even 1/8″ gap all the way around.

Once you’re satisfied with the spacing, apply double-sided tape to the back of the drawer front. Carefully position the drawer front in place, pressing it firmly so it temporarily sticks to the drawer box.

With the drawer front aligned, open the drawer and secure it from the inside using 1 1/4″ wood screws. Drive the screws through the drawer box into the back of the drawer front to firmly attach it.

Install Doors

Installing the cabinet doors is one of the final steps, and it’s super satisfying to see it all come together! Start by using a Kreg Concealed Hinge Jig to drill hinge holes on the back of each door. Be sure to follow the instructions that come with your hinges to get the placement and depth just right.

Now, it’s time to mount the doors onto the cabinet. Use the trusty playing card method to create an even 1/8″ gap all the way around the doors. Hold the doors in position and secure the hinges to the cabinet sides, checking alignment as you go.

After the doors are installed, it’s time to add the magnetic door catches. Grab a scrap 1×2 board and attach it to the backside of the 1×2 face frame, aligning it with where the doors close. Leftover trim pieces from the door trim, work great for this step, so nothing goes to waste!

Secure the scrap 1×2 with screws, then attach the magnetic catches to the back of the face frame. Once everything is in place, your doors will close snugly and stay put, giving your cabinet a polished and functional finish.

Attach Top and Back

To attach the top of the cabinet, begin by positioning it in place. It will need a 1″ overhang on each side, a 1/2″ overhang at the front, and a 1/4″ overhang at the back.

Once the top is properly aligned, secure it using corner brackets. Install 2 corner brackets on each side of the inside of the cabinet, fastening them to both the cabinet frame and the underside of the top.

To attach the back panel, position the 1/4″ plywood against the back of the cabinet so that it sits flush with the back legs. The inset 1x2s provide a perfect surface for securing the back panel.

Once the panel is aligned, use 6 to 8 screws to secure it in place. Evenly distribute the screws across the top and bottom 1×2 boards.

Add Record Player Peg Supports (optional)

Now that the cabinet is fully assembled and ready for stain, you have the option to add a peg support system inside the lower cabinet for record storage. This step is completely optional, but if you’re using the cabinet as a record player setup, it’s a great way to keep your vinyl collection organized and upright.

I ordered steel record supports from an Amazon shop and used my Kreg Peg Hole Jig to drill two perfectly aligned holes for the pegs. While the jig makes this process a breeze by keeping the holes straight and evenly spaced, it’s not a must-have tool. You can easily use a drill bit sized to fit your supports and freehand the holes—just take your time to keep things neat.

The placement and spacing of the holes is entirely up to you. If you have a growing record collection, consider drilling multiple holes so you can move the supports as needed. Alternatively, you can keep things simple by drilling permanent holes in your chosen spot and leaving the pegs in place.

If you’re not planning to use this cabinet for record storage, you can skip this step entirely and move straight to staining your cabinet!

Stain and Seal the Cabinet

Now that your cabinet is built, it’s time to bring it to life with stain and a protective finish! Before you begin, make sure your wood is prepped and ready by sanding everything down.

I started with 220-grit sandpaper on my orbital sander, then went back over the surface with a 320-grit sanding block to make sure everything was extra smooth and ready for stain.

For this project, I used Minwax Water-Based Pre-Stain, followed by Minwax True Black Wood Finish (a water-based, semi-transparent stain), and sealed it all with Minwax Polycrylic Max in a satin finish. I applied the stain using a foam brush, which I found much easier than using a rag alone—the foam brush really helped saturate the wood, and I wiped off the excess with a clean, dry cloth.

For the Polycrylic Max, I used a 2″ Purdy Syntox flat nylon brush that I picked up at Lowe’s. This newer product only requires one coat (yes, just one!), and I was skeptical at first because finishes can be tricky. But let me tell you—it was a dream to work with! It went on evenly, dried beautifully, and left a smooth, satin finish with no fuss.

Take your time with sanding, staining, and applying the finish, and your cabinet will turn out looking polished and professional!

There you have it, your own custom record player cabinet! If you build this I would love to see the finished product. Send me an email or a direct message on Instagram.

Happy Building!

DIY Record Player Cabinet Printable Plans

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